Out of Cheeppunkal at noon, through Aymanam village onto Vembanad Lake, past Pathiramanal island and down to the Thanneermukkam barrage, mooring for the night by 5:30 PM. Tap a marker for the detail.
3 km from the jetty First stretch, soon after boarding
The boat leaves Cheeppunkal down the canal and passes Aymanam, a backwater village of coconut groves, paddy and old churches on the Meenachil river. It is the village Arundhati Roy grew up in and used as the setting for The God of Small Things. You pass coir yards, fishermen in country canoes and duck flocks along the banks.
Worth knowing
Meenachil river banksCoir yards and duck farmsSetting of The God of Small ThingsCountry canoes at work
Choosing a base
Kumarakom or Alappuzha?
Both sit on Vembanad Lake, 30 km apart, and both are good trips. The difference is traffic and water: we open onto the widest part of the lake, Alappuzha runs through narrow village canals with twenty times the boats. The full comparison, including when Alappuzha is the better choice.
FeatureKumarakomAlappuzha
Boats on the waterRoughly 120 licensed boatsOver 1,000 licensed boats
WaterwayOpens straight onto the widest part of VembanadNarrow village canals, heavy two-way traffic
WildlifeBird sanctuary and mangroves on the doorstepFarmland and settlements along the banks
Getting there25 min from Kottayam station, 2 hr from Kochi airport1 hr 15 from Kottayam, 2 hr from Kochi airport
Best forQuiet, birds, open water, resortsVillage life up close, budget boats, snake boat races
The galley
Everything is cooked on board
The chef shops at Kumarakom market the morning you board. Lunch is red rice with thoran, avial and a fish fry; tea is banana fritters off the pan; dinner is whatever came off the canoes that afternoon. Tell us about dietary needs at booking and the shopping changes accordingly.
Sadya on the banana leaf — on request
The afternoon village stop
Along the banks past Aymanam. Coir yards, duck flocks on the harvested paddy, and the toddy tappers working the palms along the bund.
